A Meditation on ABUNDANCE &  a visit to my Homeland. Zanzibar. 2019 (Part 1 of 2)

The House of Wonders or Beit al Ajaib

By Bhadra Vadgama

My last visit to Zanzibar was in July 1999. So it was over 20 years since I visited my place of birth. In the meantime, ‘in the year 2000, Zanzibar Stone Town was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List due to its globally important heritage and build environment.’ So I was expecting a better state of the town since my last visit.

It so happened that I was going there with my historian friend Rozina Visram. I always called her Rozy. She and I shared a desk at the Government Girls’ Secondary School in Zanzibar from 1953-1956. We both moved to Britain in 70s where she became a teacher and later author of some major works on the 400 years of the history of Asians in Britain. We both had taught at our old school in Zanzibar and also in Uganda and Kenya. In Britain, I had changed my career and my major occupational years were spent as the Librarian in charge of the London Borough of Wandsworth’s Multicultural Library.

My visit to Zanzibar coincided with a ten days meditation I was doing with some family members. The theme of the Meditation was ABUNDANCE. There was a recorded message every day to make me aware of abundance in all sorts of things around me as well as my inner self. So I was feeling quite uplifted and, as if to prove it to me that there was truth in these messages, I had new experiences of abundance every day.

First, we went to Daressalaam. There the beauty of tropical trees, flowers, the waters of the Indian Ocean, the beautiful sunrise and sunsets - all - were proof of the abundance in nature. The welcome from my brother, sister, and other extended family members was the abundance of love that I experienced from human beings. I also managed to go and listen to a visiting lecturer from India who talked about how misunderstanding occurs and how to avoid it. It was very enlightening. He even sent me the link of his talk once he got back to India.

My niece Leena took great care of me, showing me the newly developed parts of Daressalaam. With her and her husband Franco, and children Sonia & Alexandro, I enjoyed a drink in an open-air restaurant at Slipway and window shopping the wide range of interesting things on sale. We had pizzas while watching the sunset at the Yacht Club. When we were young, these were the domains of the local Europeans.

Again, because Leena has a wide range of female friends, she took me to one of her ultra-rich friends’ house for an all-female party. The apartment was on the top floor of a high-rise building. The view of Oyster Bay was phenomenal. Freshly made food was being served by a maid. Alcoholic drinks were on offer as well. The house was adorned with rare antiques, and although the hostess was Muslim, many were of Hindu and Buddhist background, mostly from India. Wherever I looked, there was an object of interest. The hostess was an artist, so she displayed her artwork for the guests to enjoy. In the end, she gave a talk to the guests about her success in life! I must say it was a unique experience.

View of the Beit al Ajaib from the Jafferji Hotel (170 Gizenga Street)

Then we went to Zanzibar for five nights and six days. We stayed at the Jafferji Hotel & Spa. This used to be the house in which I grew up. The landlords of the house had converted it into a hotel. It was a wonderful experience to actually spend 2 days in it. Sitting in the big hall - which used to be our dining room cum major activities room for a family of 11 siblings, and in which we had held memorable events like Bhagvat Saptah, classical music concerts by eminent singers from India, banquets for dignitaries like the Indian Navy officers, Indira Gandhi, Julius Nyerere and the Indian High Commissioner for India Apa Panth - the feeling of peace and tranquillity as if I had never left ‘home’ engulfed me. Old memories of childhood days came back with inner gratitude and bliss. However, it was unusual to have a free-standing bathtub in this room. I was told they would fill it up with perfumed water if I wished to have a soak!

Our suite was named ‘Jafferji’ after the owner; another, which was our girls’ bedroom was called ‘Mercury’ after Freddie Mercury; we were lucky to see it as it was vacant then. On the wall were photos of Freddie. Part of the building was turned into a honeymoon suite and named 'Kamasutra'.

Although called a Jafferji Hotel & Spa, the hotel had no spa. I was told that one of the shops, which was once a printing press, was going to be converted into a spa and therapy suite.

The other shop, which was rented by a cobbler - a Surati mochi (mochi - cobbler or shoemaker), was now converted into the reception area of the hotel.

The owners have built an extra floor above what used to be our kitchen. Together with our old terrace, the whole floor has been converted into a kitchen and dining room area, retaining the kind of wooden carved parapet, the same as we had in other parts of the house. From here we got a beautiful view of the harbour and the surrounding buildings, including the Roman Catholic Church, Beit-el-Ajaib, a couple of mosques, and the Hindu Temple, reflecting the multi-religious community in which I grew up. It was nostalgic to recognise some familiar buildings, like Jani House, the Bohra School, and the terraces of our old neighbours.

Oh, I forgot to mention that some other guests were quite interested to hear that I grew up in that house. When we got into conversation with them, one young Dutch couple showed us their suite, which used to be my parent’s bedroom with an adjacent room that contained a bathroom. What an experience!

Must visit the site to see inside the rooms by clicking on SUITES. Our Jafferji suite and Kamasutra suites are superior suites. My parents’ room is Princess Salme Suite; our girls’ bedroom is Mercury Suite. You will be amazed to see the transformation of our old house.

 http://jafferjihouse.net

The hotel also ran cooking classes for tourists, and once again, I couldn’t stop being a teacher and ended up instructing a young British man on how to roll a chapati!

Stone Town Street Scene

Walking around the town brought different kinds of memories. 

We visited our old school on the seafront. It was in a pathetic state and was for sale. We went to Seyyida Matuka School, the new school for girls where both Rozy and I had taught. We visited the Funguni Spit, behind Sultana Cinema, the area where Rozy lived. The creek has been reclaimed now. From there, we walked to the shop where my father had his automobile business., which had now turned into a tourist agency. Abundance hadn’t deserted me yet, and we were treated with fresh coconut water by the Kutchhi-speaking owner. We passed by the house where I was born. I remembered various people, friends and families as we walked by their homes and shops. Buildings in Stone Town seemed to be in much better condition than what I had seen 20 years ago. We visited the Catholic Church but couldn’t go inside as it was locked.

It was strangely pleasant to see the shops once owned by Indians now with local African owners. However, I missed the variety of goods that used to be sold in the Indian shops when I was a child, as most shops now sell the same kind of artifacts and handicrafts that attract tourists. Only three shops I came across were run by Indians. One was owned by a Bohora lady, selling books and postcards and one sold shoes - both in Shangani. One in Sokomohogo had sweets, cigarettes, and biscuits on sale. I was told there were more shops owned by Indians as you walk towards the Market area. Regretfully, we didn’t get the opportunity to visit that part of the town. (to be continued)

Memories of the Maalim Healers in old Zanzibar by Amir Rashid

Zanzibar never had witch doctors, per se. They were respectfully known as "Maalim". There were some psychics and some administered herbal medicines derived mostly from plants and natural elements.

I remember one gentleman of Iranian/Agha descent who lived at Mwembetanga also provided psychic services. He had a bicycle and, I believe, worked as a debt collector for some company (Smith Mackenzie ?), but also did some part time work in giving herb medicines, at a nominal charge of Shs.2 (or US$.028).

Another lady, mother of the late Bwana Aziz, a gymnast, who resided behind the then Kuku market (now fish market), also provided psychic services for a nominal fee of also Shs.2. She normally would have a silver plate full of sand and one had to dip one's palm of right hand in the sand and think of the issue one had come to get her services for, and she was expected to respond and try to assist in solving that particular issue. For example, if one lost a wedding ring, and she would make a suggestion to look at a particular spot (under a mattress , etc.) in one's home.

The Zanzibar "Maalims" should not be confused with Tanganyikan and other African witch doctors. We read a lot on how Tanganyikan witchdoctors brutalize albino villagers - cut off their body parts for so called "healing" purposes. When I was in UK as a student during the 60s, I remember reading in London Times or Sunday Observer that a team of Cambridge University scientists had gone to Southern Africa to research types of herbal and plant medicines used by locals or natives, and incorporate such organic medicines in Western pharmaceuticals.

In Unguja, Zanzibar, we were also blessed by having two retailers at Hurumzi, right behind Khoja Ismaili Jamatini, Late Bwana Saleh and Late Bwana Bando. They were experts in recommending right herbal medicines and would sell small amounts at an affordable cost. We also had a Zanzibari Bahora businessman at Malindi, next to Abedi Samosa, who would give out freely some sticky stuff which when heated, could then be applied, (using a piece of cotton cloth), on a wound for speedy healing. We could not then afford imported Johnson & Johnson bandages, and this home made remedy worked like charm.

There was another word in Zanzibar Swahili witchcraft vocabulary. And that was "HALBADIRI". When someone had a grudge or had been wronged by another party, they would ask a witch doctor back home to send a "halbadiri" spell on the offending party. The witch doctors were often reluctant to administer such a strong spell on the offender, as the spell could backfire and return to the sender, who could then have mental breakdown or suffer from schizophrenia for the rest of his/her life!

I remember in the 50s, a middle aged lady passing everyday at Ngambo (by our residence) and screaming at the top of her voice in Swahili, apparently cursing someone. We were told that someone had sent a halbadiri spell on her. (It was obvious that poor lady was suffering from schizophrenia or some mental disorder).

There was another spell called "KIFARA".  This was a quick type of spell which a victim would have his Maalim or witch doctor  send on  a party which had done wrong to the victim.  Kafara would result in a major accident or disaster that would befall on the enemy.  Unlike "halbadiri", kafara cannot revert on the victim.

Yes, Zanzibar was gifted by locals who were not materialistic, as now, and we all lived like one family, although, like in any family, there were ups and downs every now and then. Unfortunately, foreign interference in Zanzibar's politics ended all that one family relationships among Zanzibaris. (Now even our Wapemba brothers try to smuggle cloves to Kenya in order to get more money for their produce). Yes, times have changed and drug culture has taken over everywhere in this dunia.

Wa salaam, Amir Rashid.

Zanzibar Uhuru (Freedom) now in hard copy - paperback edition

Zanzibar Uhuru is now available in paperback at Amazon & Book Depository.
(as well as an ebook on iBooks through iTunes)

This is the story of Zanzibar's 1964 Revolution and the years since then. It is told through the lives of two women, one Arab Zanzibari, the other a child of a colonial administrator.

The story touches on:
the nature of the mad leader of the revolution: John Okello
the years of the despotic presidents post-revolution - the hunger and suffering of Zanzibaris
the torture within the prisons set up by the East Germans after the revolution
the forced marriages of the Persian girls
the imposition of a system of spies (Volunteers) on the islands
the neglect of the ancient Stone Town
the nationalisation of the homes in Stone Town and the clove and coconut farms
the creeping corruption within the system
the neglect of the sister island of Pemba

http://www.bookdepository.com/Zanzibar-Uhuru-Anne-Chappel/9781505511840
http://www.amazon.com/Zanzibar-Uhuru-revolution-challenge-survival/dp/1505511844/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422766471&sr=8-1&keywords=zanzibar+uhuru&pebp=1422766474079&peasin=1505511844

Zanzibar’s Uniqueness: of music, weddings, cricket and times past. by Chirantan Shukla

I have followed people’s reminiscences about our beloved Zanzibar with much interest. It has prompted me, rather belatedly, to offer a few experiences of growing up in Zanzibar.

I became aware of Zanzibar’s uniqueness soon after our arrival in late 1953; when I was just 7 years of age. At the time, we were staying in Sokomogo Street. It was the holy month of Ramadhan and in the middle of the night, I was woken by singing and music coming from the street. The tunes sounded familiar. The accent was different but nevertheless melodious. I could not resist getting up and looking from the window. The group singing and playing the music was entirely Waswahili, but they were singing popular Hindi songs from hit Bollywood movies of the time.

We had arrived in Zanzibar from Kenya and this first hand cultural experience left its mark. Thereafter, I well remember non-Hindi Zanzibaris proclaiming with joy “lewo iko Awara” as they went about their daily
routines; and sure enough multi-ethnic audience would flock to the Empire Cinema to see their favourite Raj Kapoor and hear “Awara hoon”.


In later years, I found that a significant number of Hindi tunes were adopted for Swahili songs. Elements of Hindi music were also adopted for some taarab music. This could only happen in Zanzibar.

Indian weddings were held with proper pomp and ceremony in Zanzibar. The procession of the bridegroom was an essential element of the wedding. The procession was led by a band playing music. I only knew of one band; the “Salum's Band” named after the band leader Salum. The band’s dress, while performing, was khaki shorts and a khaki shirt. I believe Salum was of Arabic extraction and some of his musicians were Waswahilis. They exclusively played Hindi songs. What memories!

There was a tea/coffee house cum Arabic restaurant; opposite our house in Sokomogo, The radio in the restaurant was constantly tuned to radio Cairo and played popular Arabic songs of the time. I did not speak Arabic but fell in love with the music blaring out from the radio. I soon began to appreciate songs by
Arabic legends like Om Kultum, Abdul Halim Hafiz, Farid-el-Atrash etc. This appreciation of Arabic music stood me in good stead when during the course of my career; I worked in Saudi Arabia, Iraq, Abu Dhabi, Qatar and Tunisia.

This early cultural exposure in Zanzibar allowed me to retain my appreciation of Arabic music and later I became an ardent fan of the great Fairuz. This was only possible because of growing up in Zanzibar.

I had a keen interest in sports and followed the national cricket and football teams. The make-up of Zanzibar cricket team illustrated the multi-ethnic cohesion of Zanzibaris. The cricketers (1950’s and early 60’s) who come to mind are Ahmed Himid, Mansour, Baker Tejani, Zaghlul, Harji Mawji, Rusi Madon, Abdulkadir, Gajendra Doshi, Gulam ("Golo") Mshamba, Jawad, Ahmed Bachoo, Mehdi etc. Juma Aley was closely involved with cricket and did play for Zanzibar. He was a better administrator than a cricketer.

In my view, Harji Mawji was perhaps the best Zanzibari cricketer. He was a genuine all rounder in
the mould of Gary Sobers. Actually, I have always considered Gary Sobers to be in Harji Mawji’s mould; as Harji came before Sobers. Harji was a prolific batsman, a very good medium pace bowler who also bowled spin and an excellent fielder. Harji was not adequately challenged in Zanzibar and could not achieve his potential. Ramanbhai Patel (then Captain of Kenya and a fine batsman) was so impressed with Harji, that he advised Harji to go to England and become a professional cricketer.

Harji and his family were of modest means and there was no prospect of him coming to England. Harji played football for Kikwajuni. He was the only Indian to play football for a first Division team. He was a very good volleyball player. Harji remained a Zanzibari to his end. Footballers who played for the national team in the 1950’s who come to mind are Issa, Sururu, Shaban etc.

I have fond memories of my years at King George VI Secondary School. In one respect, the class was a microcosm of Zanzibar. Names of my classmates illustrate this point; fellow students like Salim Himid, Abii Seif, Abdulla Ahmed, Moh’d Shangama, Salim Juma, Makame Usi, Moh’d Raza Sultan, Bipin Suchak,
Harkishan Bhagat, Abdul Latif, Irshad Dalal, Abitalib etc. In another sense, the ethnic distribution of the class did not reflect the percentage make-up of the Zanzibari population.

I have to conclude by noting that my mother Mrs Shukla was a teacher at the Government Girls Secondary School. Girls who were students at the school between 1954 and 1970, would have been taught by Mrs Shukla.

My mother tells me that when the late Abeid Karume was President; his then young sons, Amani and Ali, used to come to the Jani Building (behind Beit-el-Ajab) for private tuition with her. I am proud that my mother may have played a very small part in developing illustrious future leaders of Zanzibar.

Mrs Shukla is almost 90 years old and keeps remarkably well for her advanced years.

Life in Zanzibar before and after the Revolution from the Kanga Family

The Zanzibar Revolution:

On 10^th December 1963 Zanzibar island gained independence form Great Britain. A month later, on the night of January 12^th 1964, a band of some 300 people, violently seized the island of Zanzibar (Unguja) and overthrew  the Sultan of Zanzibar and his mainly Arab Government. In this bloody Zanzibar Revolution hundreds and thousands of Arabs and Indians were killed in genocide and thousands more expelled.

On the morning of the revolution the square in front of our house was surrounded by revolutionaries with guns and Machetes (broad heavy knives) but because of the British locality none of the houses were stormed (attacked), although observed day and night. None of us would dare go out for several days in fear of being attacked and killed.  We eventually ventured out to get to work, shopping etc., at first by car and then walking to work.

Most of the killings occurred outside the town in rural areas although few were killed in town caught unawares outside and others attending the church service. The Zanzibaris were caught unawares, as none of us, visualize that this would happen, as in Zanzibar all the citizens lived together in harmony regardless of class or creed.

Hoshie and Bepsy's parents in Zanzibar: wedding day

Kanga Family: from Hoshie Eddie Kanga

Hoshie & Bepsy's father on 'protection' duty during the visit of Princess Margaret to Zanzibar in 1956

I was born on the spice island of Zanzibar on Armistice Day, 11^th November 1941. My parents are of Zoroastrian faith. My father was Eddie Fredoonji Kanga and he worked in the British Colonial Government.
My upbringing was a happy one. After graduating with GCE “O” levels from Aga Khan High school in 1960, I started temporary work for six months at the Municipal Elections, and later joined the Zanzibar Colonial Government service in the department of H M Customs and Excise.

After the Revolution, in January 1964, I with other Asian officers was sacked on the spot without prior notice. On the day of the sacking all the staff was called to assemble outside the corridor and was told “When your names are called out, Step forward”. 

I was amongst the ones whose names were called and were then told that we were all sacked. I had completed two and a half years of service. No compensation was paid.  This sacking was in a way, blessing in disguise, which gave me opportunity to go to London and I took it.  

Beginning of May 1964 without notifying anyone outside the family, I set out to go first to the mainland Dar es Salaam, stayed for a fortnight and then got a passage on French ship to go to London via Suez Canal.  Ports of call:  Dar es Salaam – Mombasa – Djibouti – Port Said – Port Suez – Alexandria – Marseilles – Paris - and finally arrived at Dover, Kent (UK) on 31 May 1964 – then by Train to  London, Victoria.

My sister, Bepsy, was also in Zanzibar during and after the Revolution. The people in power after the revolution were planning to forcibly marry with young Persian and Indian girls. My parents, requested me to call my sister to the United Kingdom. I, therefore, arranged to enroll Bepsy for a secretarial course at a college in Dublin, Southern Ireland.  Bepsy also quietly left Zanzibar for Dar-es-Salaam to avoid suspicion (after revolution one could travel to the mainland); then after a fortnight stay travelled in  August 1967 to Dublin, Southern Ireland, via London. I also flew from London to greet her on arrival at Dublin airport. Bepsy was 17 years old at the time.

My Brother, Dhanjishaw, escaped the turmoil of Zanzibar Revolution as he was already living and working in Dar es Salaam since i962.

My Father was born in Navsari, Gujarat state, India in 1908; after his secondary school education, at the age of 18 years, immigrated to Zanzibar and started working at first in the Shipping Company, African Mercantile, and then joined the British Colonial Service, worked in various government departments and finally In Attorney General’s office. 

After retiring from the Government Service in Attorney General’s office, my Father worked as a part time Priest (while in India, my Father also did our Zoroastrian Religious studies and was ordained to become a priest) at our Parsee Fire Temple (Agiari), which was situated on the outskirts of town, near the Zanzibar Prisons. The Fire Temple at night was isolated and after the Revolution was not safe so we pleaded with my parents to consider leaving Zanzibar. In the beginning they were reluctant to do so as both loved the island so much, besides lived in a beautiful house in town in Shangani area which was a nice location. Our house was opposite then Cable and Wireless which was later converted into now Serena Hotel.

My sister and I persuaded our parents to leave Zanzibar to go India.  Finally, in 1983 our parents left Zanzibar secretly to Dar-es-Salaam, the mainland and stayed couple of months with my brother before travelling to Mumbai (Bombay) India. Had to keep the travel plans secret; although, soon after the revolution, many people were expelled, later the government were reluctant to let them leave.

As a result of people leaving Zanzibar, especially businessmen, the thriving economy of the island suffered; and the once well known trade, in Cloves and copra (dried coconuts), coconut oil and clove oil also deteriorated.

The Bulsara Family

Another Zoroastrian (Parsi) family, Bomi & Jer Bulsara, whose son Freddie Mercury born Farrokh Bulsara, the front man of Rock Band “Queen” and charismatic solo performer became famous in the United Kingdom and all over the world. “We will Rock You” the Queen’s musical in London, one of the best.

Freddie was born in Zanzibar on 05^th September 1946 and went to an English style boarding school in India when he was eight. Freddie always loved to sing and set up a school band when he was 12. He later joined his parents in the United Kingdom. Freddie lived first in a flat and then a big mansion, also in Kensington, London.

In 1964 as a result of the Zanzibar Revolution the family including Freddie’s younger sister Kashmira, now 60 fled to the United Kingdom and settled in Feltham, Middlesex. Jer Bulsara (Freddie’s Mum) who is 90 is still living in Nottingham, England. Her husband Bomi, a former cashier in the British Colonial office, died nine years ago, aged 95.

Freddie Mercury died tragically of Aids related pneumonia in November 1991. He was 45. Mrs. Bulsara is particularly keen on a lavish new book which is about to be published, twenty years after the death of Rock’s most famous singers. The new book “Freddie Mercury, The Great Pretender: A Life in Pictures", is full of wonderful photographs including several never-before seen images, that span the rock star's life.

Although Freddie’s house in Shangani was close to ours, I have never met Freddie, either in Zanzibar, or in the United Kingdom.  However, we used to visit his parents frequently in Zanzibar and have also met his parents and sister Kashmira on numerous occasions in London.

Other Parsi Families

Another well known, Jasavala family, used to live in a beautiful big house which is now converted into Hotel “Tembo” ran a thriving business, Liquor and General store, established by Coswjee Dinshaw of India. After the Revolution, the property was confiscated by the Revolutionary Government.  Eventually the house was converted into the present hotel “Tembo”, so named because originally, in the house courtyard stood a big statue of an Elephant (Tembo in Kiswahili). There is now a swimming pool.

Gradually, one by one, most of the Zoroastrians (Parsi) family left the shores of Zanzibar, first to the mainland, Dar es Salaam, and then to India, United Kingdom, U. S. A. and Canada. Also the Indians as well as other nationalities had to flee leaving their thriving businesses behind.

At the present time, there is only one Zoroastrian family, father and daughter, remaining in Zanzibar, they are also planning to go to Canada to be reunited with another daughter who has settled there.

My Brother, Dhanjishaw, goes to Zanzibar regularly three to four times in a year for holidays and relaxation.

Final Reflection:

2002 Hoshie Kanga MBE at Buckingham Palace

Since settling in London in May of 1964, I have visited Zanzibar many times; in the beginning, I was refused permission to visit my parents, as I was declared Prohibited Immigrant but gradually situation improved in Zanzibar and then I could visit regularly.

All the visits to Zanzibar, since the Revolution has been peaceful and brought all the beautiful memories flooding back of my growing up in Paradise, on the spice island of Zanzibar. At present, Zanzibar is in the limelight; as we noticed many tourists are now visiting Zanzibar and staying in Stone town, as well as different beautiful beaches all over the island. Let’s all wish that Zanzibar remains peaceful.

I have often wondered, what I would have been doing, if the Zanzibar revolution did not take place. However, I have no regrets; have enjoyed life to the full.

I arrived in London on 31st May 1964; after three days of my arrival, I was fortunate to find a temporary job in a cigarette manufacturing company, worked there for eleven months; was unemployed for one month (received Social Security benefit); then joined the British Civil Service in May 1965.

I Retired from the Civil Service; H.M. Treasury, on 10th November 2001 after a service of over 18 years. In the New Years Honours  list of 2001 I was awarded the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire (MBE) from Her Majesty the Queen Elizabeth II for my services to HM Treasury. I received the MBE at the Investiture Ceremony and it was presented by His Royal Highness Prince of Wales, Prince Charles at Buckingham Palace on 17th April 2002.

THE ZOROASTRIAN BACKGROUND: WHO ARE THE ZOROASTRIANS?

Zoroastrians are the followers of great Iranian prophet, Spitaman. Zarathushtra (known to the Greeks as Zoroaster). Zarathushtra lived and preached somewhere around the Aral sea, about three and thousand years ago, circa 1500 BCE.

The History:

For over a thousand years circa 549 BCE to 652 CE the religion taught by Zarathushtra flourished as the state religion of three mighty Iranian empires, that of Achaemenians (549-330 BCE) , the Parthians (28 BCE – 224 CE) and the Sasanians (224-652 CE). Amongst the many subjects of the Achaemenian empire were the Jews who adopted some of the prophet’s main teachings, and transmitted them in due course to Christianity and later to Islam.

THE PARSI ARRIVAL:

In the 7^th century CE, the Arabs conquered Iran and many of them settled there and gradually imposed their own religion of Islam. In the early 10^th century, a small group of Zoroastrians seeking freedom of worship and economic redress, left Iran and sailed towards the warm shores of Western India. They eventually arrived along the Gujarat coastline in 936 CE at a place they named Sanjan, 180 kms north of Mumbai (Bombay). There they flourished and came to be known as Parsis (Persians). Over the millennium, a small band of faithful Zoroastrians have continued to live in Iran, and have tried to preserve their culture and religious traditions as best as possible.

CURRENTLY:

Today, the Zoroastrian community, consisting of about 130,000 individuals, live in India, Iran and various parts of the English speaking world.   

by Hoshie & Bepsy Kanga

The Arab Chests of the Peoples of the Monsoon

The image shows the chest in the entrance hall of the hotel: Africa House in Stonetown, Zanzibar This was the old 'English Club'.

They are known as ‘Arab’ Chests but that is only part of the story. There is no collective name for the communities of the Indian Ocean that created these amazing chests: chests to store peoples’ most precious possessions. I like to think of them as peoples of the monsoon - a community of coastal civilisations that relied on the powerful winds of the Indian Ocean. From China, through Asia, western India, to the Arabian Gulf and down to the East African coast the winds allowed trade to take place and these chests are their testament.

Our family owns an Arab chest. It was purchased over 60 years ago in Zanzibar. Nowadays Arab chests are collectors items, found in the museums of the African coast and old houses of the Arabian Peninsula, particularly of Oman. The diverse origins of the solid wooden, brass-studded and plated chests that are called ‘Arab’ chests are deep in history. Research by a collector, Sheila Unwin, has revealed some of these cultural roots. The chests were trade items that came from the West Indian coast, from Surat down past Bombay. Local craftsmen made the chests from teak, rosewood and shisham. They were exported to Arabia and some were transported onwards down the coast to Africa. The chests were often the prized possessions of the dhow captains, the nakhodas.

The Portuguese had brought their own sea chests with them when they sailed into the Indian Ocean in the 16Century. These invaders devastated the region, wiping out cities, overpowering local rulers and building their sea-facing forts from Kilwa in Africa, Muscat in Oman to Goa in India. Their chests were on fretted stands and local craftsmen admired and adopted this design into their chest making. There is a golden16^th Century Chinese screen painting depicting Portuguese traders arriving in China. The high backed caravel is filled with people offloading boxes of trading goods. Two sumptuously dressed Chinese officials are seated on the shore observing the activity. Clearly drawn at their feet is an ‘Arab’ chest.

The Dutch were the next conquerors and brought their camphorwood sea chests to India. From them the ‘Arab’ chest inherited the brass knobs and backplates. The Chinese gave the chest makers the idea of the ingenious three-ring-padlocks and the internal cash boxes or till boxes were probably copied English chests.

When the simple chests reached Oman brass decoration could be added according to the wishes of the owner. In the simple Arab houses of the Gulf, there was no furniture. Persian carpets decorated the floors and embossed niches held items of decorative value. Valuable possessions were kept in the prized chests and a bride would leave home with her valuables, her dowry, in a new chest – often painted red to symbolise fertility.

In the 19 century Zanzibar grew rich on the monsoonal trade. The winds also brought invaders to her shores. It was a safe port with rich fishing grounds, fertile soils and it facilitated the trade from the east and from the rich African interior. Zanzibar had many chests for sale in the old days. They arrived with the NE Monsoon that blows from October to March. It was where our family bought the chest that graced our home.

It came from a tiny Stonetown shop or dukka along Portuguese Alley, now called Gizenga Street. Recently I opened the chest’s lid to see if it had a secret drawer under the small till box. It did. Inside was a piece of paper, yellowed and insect eaten. The writing was in Arabic, beautifully scripted. A friend did the translation and explained that it was a prayer, a dua, a promise to Allah. I returned it in the drawer where the previous owner had put it for safekeeping. With the chest, it had travelled a long way.